DOHERTY BY SEA



Monday, October 25, 2010

Namestay!







I LOVE India! I love the people. I love the food. I love the vibrance and the chaos. I love the beautiful silk saris and fabric. I love the bizarreness of it all. I love the culture. I love the rickshaw taxis. I love the cows wandering in the middle of the street. I love the calmness of the people...

We spent the first two days in Chennai. It is like a three ring circus on STEROIDS!Chennai is a very industrial southern Indian coastal city, located in the region of Tamil Nadu. It has an extremely rich culture and very proud people. 60% of this region is Hindu; 30% are Muslim; 10% are Christian. The people are SO friendly, gracious, and hospitable - it is unbelievable! Like most cities, it is full of hustlers, shysters, and wheeler dealers too! No sooner do we leave the safe haven of the ship when we are descended upon by hordes of these people clamoring for our attention to ride in their rickshaws or taxis, or to buy a toy drum or get fitted for a suit...! Some of them are downright belligerent, others endearing. Now try and imagine these men wearing giant depends! On top of all that, imagine the pungent smells of rotting trash, wandering cows and dogs, and 105 degree heat! Somehow, we are taking it all in stride and finding it quite amusing!

Our first adventure in Chennai was late in the afternoon on the first day. We went out to dinner with our favorite two students from the ship - both Juniors at Boston University! We headed out as the sun was setting in two rickshaw taxis - can't believe these haven't hit NYC! Our family of five fit just perfectly! Its engine is about as big as Ty's riding mower! But oh does it have gumption! I don't even know how to describe the chaos of the traffic -- entire families on mopeds, extended families crammed in rickshaws, buses overflowing with people, taxis, luxury cars, women riding side saddle on 80s era motorcycles, bicycles, and pedestrians all vying for their space...it is truly remarkable! The kids LOVED the rickshaws -- who wouldn't?! It's like demolition derby! I am trying my best to see the folly of it all rather than be absolutely petrified for our safety!

One of the things I hadn't anticipated was the challenge of avoiding nuts in the foods - something I am very allergic to! Unfortunately I found out the hard way... our first night out, my eyes were almost entirely swollen shut because of some peanut likely hidden in the aloo mutter we were eating! Fortunately I am well stocked with epi-pens so a full blown reaction was averted. However 3 days later, my eyes were still slightly swollen! AAAAGGGH!!!

Our second day in Chennai we went to a "mall," Spencer's Plaza - is it like Target the kids want to know?! The remainder of the afternoon/evening I spent unfortunately visiting one of our students who is in the private hospital in Chennai. She is an unbelievable young person who has a severe case of malaria. I will tell more about her in later posts - say a prayer for her speedy recovery. She is still in the ICU, showing improvement, but slowly. It is every parent's worst nightmare... She is in excellent hands with the hospital physicians and nurses and our team's nurse Stephanie who is beyond amazing! Last week was absolutely crazy with work related issues that I'm not able to write about at this time. John and I and the kids were all in desperate need of a break, though I felt so guilty leaving this patient in Chennai.

Stay tuned for more tales from India tomorrow... Mahallapuram is unlike any place I've ever been. My dear friend Deborah described this region as "the Wild West" when she and her husband and daughter visited several years ago - now I know what she's talking about!

Keep your posted comments coming -- we all look forward to reading them each day! Know that we are all happy and healthy. Layne tells me that India is her "favorite place we've visited so far...!" Jury's out still for Anna. Dec is in his "Tex-bad boy phase" as of late -- maybe he's just amped up on all of this crazy Indian energy! Johnnie is heading out tomorrow am for some fishing, and I look forward to more chaos!

Sending our love from many miles away -- Love, Traci

12 comments:

  1. Traci, wonderful writing!!You made me smell the smells hear the sounds feel the energy and the chaos.Please be careful of the peanut foods. We love you!!!India sounds so exciting. I am so glad You are getting some R&R. Your medical life seems busy and intense.For the kids..what can possibly top a Rickshaw ride? Be well. Tell us more.
    Love, Connie

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  2. Hi Anna!
    I can't wait until halloween! The farm where I ride is having a halloween party on Saterday! Are you going trick or treating on the boat? I liked the picture of you hoola hooping. Judith went to a haunted house with her friends and said it was very scary! What is your favorit thing to do on the boat? I made a story in school about seeing you at the Cape. What is your favor it place you have gone to? What is school like on a boat? I miss you! LOVE VICTORIA

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  3. Hi Trac!
    Your descriptions are great, felt like we were riding the rickshaw along with you. Looking forward to hearing more about your trip ashore. India is in my top 5 must visit places. I can only dream of how colorful a place it must be. I have so enjoyed checking in on this blog and following your journey.

    I do send a posting request for the next time you are on one of those long sea legs. The boys can not wrap their heads around what a "kids room" on a boat looks like. They ask all sorts of questions about what your living quarters are like, and never having been on a cruise boat, I am not much help in a reply!

    Big hugs!! :: Sarah

    P.S. - I am loving the new haircut!

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  4. Traci...you wrote a wonderful report about India. After the 2nd paragraph about rotting trash, etc. it was hard to picture loving India, or was that just Chennai? maybe the rickshaw rides made it all worth while. Hope your student gets better soon. How long are you in India, and will she be able to get back on the ship? love to you all, Aunt Patty

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  5. Thank you so much for your comments! Every day we are anxious to hear from all of you at home! Connie, you are amazing in your daily check-ins and comments - thank you!!!! Send love to all from us. Victoria, you made Anna so happy with your note! She will write to you soon. Sarah, so great to hear from you! We will definitely write about "our quarters" when we're back at sea...maybe even a picture of the kids room! I realize we haven't done that yet! Aunt Patty, missing you! Can't wait to hear how your fall is going. Will definitely write more tonight after our stroll through town...Love you all. Traci

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  6. I'm sure the kids will convince Johnnie to build them a rickshaw for them; can't you just see it in the driveway on Myrtle St.! wonderful job Trac, describing for us the sights and smells of India. I'm sure you know it's not on my top 5 places to visit. Please be careful with the nuts, food that is; glad you got a supply of epi-pens. I hope this finds your student doing well; prayers have been made. can't wait for the next post. give the little ones a big hug from Bump. love you all.

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  7. Traci - India was never on the top of my list of places I have to see - but your 1st paragraph had me reconsidering. Then I get to the part about the rotting trash and "giant depends" and well... can't wait to see some pictures of both the bad and the good and more importantly, sit and have real discussion about it. Loving the blog - so jealous of all your experiences on this adventure. Keep enjoying!! Connie N

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  8. Be sure to visit Perumal Temple in Mammalapuram-it's in the center of town, hard by the bus station. It's not much to look at, and it is not particularly distinguished...but that is part of its charm. If you hang around inside long enough, you'll be part of something good: maybe a street procession will start up, or a couple musicians work through a carnatic song of the south.
    On the street, the best treats are the local coconuts. They are generally not chilled, but the milk is rich and tasty. Wish we there with you! The Belmontians

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  9. Hi Traci, Your comment about Chennai being on steroids was hysterical. I laughed so hard about you descriptions that I almost wet my pants. I was sorry to read about your allergic reaction to the nuts!!! What a drag that you have to worry about that. Thank god you had the epi-pens. Is Declan still in his "Tex bad boy phase?" He is so cute in the pictures and as always the girls are cute, too. Tell everyone I say hi and I can't for more news from you. Love, Lisa Pizza

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  10. The new pictures are very interesting. That must be a huge statue of Jesus.What a riveting face on the man with the child. John, you seem to be making many fisherman friends.I am sure language is not necessary among fishermen. You are both doing such a good job in the pictures you choose to send us. They tell stories in themselves. Thank you!
    Missing you and loving you!
    Mom

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  11. Have you all been fitted for giant depends? A family photo of you wearing the proper and cultural wardrobe would be nice. Kidding aside. Wishing you all well. Love, Michael

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  12. Great post Traci, loved hearing all the details of your Indian surroundings! Hope you have fully recovered from your peanut scare. Jack liked looking at the hoolahooping pics and said he thought that Layne looks "taller"! Anna you looked like a pro! Sadie wants to know if you have any loose teeth yet layne? Sadie is waiting for her first loose tooth, but nothing yet. Hope Dec is behaving himself, Cal is turning every day into a power struggle lately- wonder why? We were up a lot last night with Garrett who just doesn't want to go back to sleep! Beautiful fall day here and looking forward to Halloween on Sunday. Jack will be a mummy, Sadie a punk rocker, and Callum a builder since all he will agree to wear is a toolbelt and jeans:) Take care, we miss you! Love, Cath

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